Places To Check Out
DHAKA
The rather crowded capital city of Bangladesh sits on
the bustling north bank of the Buriganga River, roughly
in the center of the country. If you've arrived in Dhaka
from Southeast Asia, you'll probably be struck by the
lack of hype and commercial activity. If you arrive from
Delhi or Kathmandu, you're sure to notice the relatively
clean air. If you've flown from Calcutta you might find
it clean and orderly and if you've come overland through
rural Bangladesh, it will seem like Babylon. Here the
lights are as bright as they get in Bangladesh, and there's
a range of goods and services lacking elsewhere in the
country.
The
oldest section of the city runs along the north bank of
the waterfront and was developed when Dhaka was a significant
Moghul trading center. A must-see in the Old City is the
area between the two main water transport terminals, Sadarghat
and Badam Tole where the panorama of river life on the
Buriganga is particularly fascinating. This area is always
crowded with people and water craft of every type. Along
the waterfront is the old pink baroque-style palace, Ahsan
Manzil, which although relatively small, houses one of
the regions more interesting museums.
Dhaka's
premier attraction is Lalbagh Fort, an unfinished fort
dating from 1678 located in the Old City. The area also
contains a couple of attractive mosques, including Hussain
Dalan. The National Museum is north of the Old City in
the old European zone known as Modern City. It has fascinating
displays of Bangladesh's Hindu, Buddhist and Moghul past
and an extensive collection of fine folk art and handicrafts.
Most
of the cheaper accommodation and restaurants are in the
Modern City of Central Dhaka. This area also contains
the Motijheel Commercial Area, the business district where
most of the banks, travel agents and airline offices are
located. Dhaka is the rickshaw capital of the world, with
over 300,000 colorful painted rickshaws in operations.
Taking a ride in one is as essential as catching a red
double-decker bus in London.
SUNDARBAN
MANGROVES
The Sundarbans are the largest mangrove forest in the
world, stretching 80km into the Bangladeshi hinterland
from the coast. The Sundarbans cover an area of 38,500
sq. km, of which about one-third is water. It is optimistically
estimated that there are around 400 Royal Bengal tigers
(of which you'll never see one -- and be grateful for
it) and several thousand spotted deer in the area. Realistically
don't expect to see much other than a few crocs sunbathing
in the mud and a few species of migratory birds in the
winter. Either to or from Dhaka, the 'Rocket' or colonial
paddle-wheeler is the most exciting way to arrive at or
depart from Khulna city. To get deep enough into the mangroves
takes several days of river journey each way.
CHITTAGONG
The second largest city in Bangladesh sits on the bank
of the Karnaphuli River and has an interesting old waterfront
area known as Sadarghat which reflects the importance
of river trade to the city's growth. Nearby is the old
Portuguese enclave of Paterghata which remains mostly
Christian and has a colonial church. The Shahi Jama-e-Masjid
and Qadam Mubarak Mosque are two of the most impressive
buildings in the city. It's also worth visiting the Ethnological
Museum in the Agrabad area which has quite interesting
displays on Bangladesh's tribal peoples. There are good
views and cooling breezes from Fairy Hill in the British
City in the northwestern sector of the city. The markets
(Reazuddin Bazaar) and the goldsmith lane (Hazari guli)
are really worth a visit -- and a sampan river journey
is a must. North of the city is the ship-breaking yards,
a real experience in recycling if you're willing to breath
in burning bilge and asbestos. A day or two here is plenty.
COX'S BAZAR
Bangladesh's main beach resort is near the Myanmar border
in an area where Rohingya refugees have settled to escape
persecution in Myanmar over the centuries. It has a slight
Burmese Buddhist flavor and has basic amenities to service
the visitors attracted by its enormous expanse of shark-free
beach. Get out of the 'hotel district' and wander around
the tribal and residential areas. South of Cox's Bazar
are secluded beaches where having a swim can still be
a private experience. A short speed boat journey away
is Maheskhali island, where there is an ancient Hindu
temple (during February there is a huge gathering for
Siva Ratri) and Buddhist shrines in the tribal area where
you can see and purchase beautiful handloom cloth directly
from the tribal women weavers. You can also observe sea
salt production and shrimp farming.
MAINAMATI
This 8th-century Buddhist Vihara was formerly one of the
biggest Buddhist monasteries south of the Himalayas. Although
in an advanced state of decay, the overall plan of the
temple complex is easy to figure out and includes a large
quadrangle with the monks' cells forming the walls and
enclosing a courtyard. From the center of the courtyard
rises the remains of a stupa which once dominated the
surrounding countryside. The monastery's recessed walls
are embellished with well-preserved terra-cotta bas-reliefs
and a small museum houses a representative display of
the domestic and religious objects found during excavations.
It is just a few minutes from Comilla off the main Dhaka-Chittagong
highway and can be visited on the way.
ST.
MARTIN'S ISLAND
This small coral island is about 14km southwest of the
southernmost town of Teknaf of the mainland is a quaint
tropical paradise with beaches fringed with coconut palms
and bountiful marine life. There's nothing more strenuous
to do here than soak up the sun and drink green coconut
water, but it's a clean and peaceful place without even
a mosquito to disrupt your serenity. It's possible to
walk around the island in a few hours because it measures
only eight sq. km, shrinking to about five sq. km during
high tide. Most of island's 5,000-odd inhabitants live
primarily from fishing and close to the boat landing at
the island's wholesale fish market. A ferry leaves Teknaf
for St. Martin every morning (as per tides) and takes
around 3 hours. It's difficult to go and return in one
day, so plan to stay at least one night. The lone 8-room
hotel is rather costly, the only alternative is with a
local retired teacher in his most humble 'guest room'.
CHITTAGONG
HILL TRACTS
Decidedly untypical of Bangladesh in topography and culture,
the Chittagong Hill Tracts have steep jungle hills, Buddhist
tribal peoples and is the one place that must be visited.
The tracts are about 60km east of Chittagong, that have
recently been opened to the public are an idyllic place
to visit. The region comprises a mass of hills, ravines
and cliffs covered with jungle, bamboo, creepers and shrubs,
and has four main valleys formed by the Karnaphuli, Feni,
Sangu and Matamuhuri rivers. This area is our specialty.
In
the far southeastern corner of Bangladesh, bordering Myanmar
(Burma) the Chittagong Hill Tracts (CHT) cover three distinct
districts of Khagrachari, Rangamati and Bandarban. These
are home to about a half a million indigenous peoples
of 14 unique tribes. It's quite a relief from the flat
lowlands of Bengal, to relax and get away from the crowds.
Much of the traditional lifestyle is still preserved -
Tribal kings, village headmen and self-sustaining crafts,
a natural lifestyle, all in a rich, still pristine foothill
ecological environment. This region has only recently
become accessible - with the signing of an internationally
acclaimed accord between the indigenous people and the
government. As the few local hotel registers will confirm,
only a handful of foreign tourists have yet had the fortune
to visit to the Chittagong Hill Tracts, truly an experience
to treasure.
RANGAMATI
A lush and verdant rural area belonging to the Chakma
tribe, is open to visitors, as is Kaptai Lake. The lake,
ringed by thick tropical and semi-evergreen forests, looks
like nothing else in Bangladesh. While the lake itself
is beautiful, the thatched fishing villages located on
the lake shore are what make a visit really special. Boats
which visit the villages leave from Rangamati. Bring your
swimming gear because you can take a plunge anywhere.
The town itself is crowded with baby taxis and becoming
increasingly polluted. Avoid holidays and Fridays when
hundreds of Bengali 'picnickers' converge in crowded buses,
each competing with the loudest cinema music screaming
tape systems mounted on the roofs.
BANDARBAN
The capital of the hill district of the same name and
home to the Bohmong tribal king. Much smaller and more
quaint than Rangamati. It the base for traveling south
by country boats down the Sangu river to Ruma, Thanchi
and points beyond. Tuesday is the weekly market when you'll
see tribal folk from miles around. There is a large Buddhist
water festival every April.
ALIKADAM
A very small market town (Monday is the weekly market).
This is where one can take boats up the Matamurhi river
and hike into interior tribal villages. There is a 3 room
government guest house with basic facilities. Bangladesh
Ecotours runs a small ecolodge about 20 minutes from the
bazar area and arranges homestays with Tripuri, Tanchangya,
Marma and Mru families. There are several small villages
within a half-days walk.
|
